FAQ

Your most frequently asked questions… answered.

Editor’s notes (2019)

The FAQ and discussion below has been mildly edited to eliminate typos, make it clearer who the authors are and which boats they themselves have (by hull number and boat name if known). Wherever possible alternative (i.e. current) references to products & suppliers are provided.

The bulk of this FAQ was originally generated as a Q&A in the period 2005 – 2015. In this period Lester Helmus acted as a clearing house for questions and responses, but some respondents would also write direct to each other, hence some of the overlapping answers you see in the FAQ. In places there are 2019 and subsequent comments, drawing either on my own experiences, or from other Corbin 39 owners and sources, including our Corbin 39 Group on Facebook. More comments are most welcome and this FAQ will inevitably grow.

We have attempted to contact all contributors to the 2015 version of the FAQ. All responses have been most supportive, thank you. If you are a contributor who has yet to respond please contact us.

As will be apparent there are multiple viewpoints on some topics. Sometimes, but not always, this can be traced to differences in arrangement between the boats of the various authors. Some of the topics raised are not so much a Q&A, as simply being a statement of why a particular owner thought something was a good idea, which of course it may not have been at all. Make your own mind up.

If you have further comments or suggestions on any of these questions, or wish to pose new questions, or describe various issues you have faced and/or overcome, then please contact us either via the Facebook Group or via the Website.

[Remark as of November 2019: Quite a lot of the links to drawings & photos are not yet reinstated due to workload. However I also know quite a few of the relevant images have gone astray. You may find the relevant photos in the individual boat’s entry. Please email us if you have any of the missing photos, drawings, etc.]

RUNNING RIGGING

I am outfitting my Corbin and am ready to purchase winches. What would you recommend for sizes in self-tailers? I have seen some manufacturers’ recommendations, but I want to find out what people are actually using and what they find appropriate for size. Thanks! Al Sachs (s/v #081, Blue Pearl) a. Hello, I would recommend #48 for the primaries and #34 or larger for the staysail. I like Anderson winches; they are made of ss and seem to hold up the best. Henry and Mattie Mcalarney (s/v #018, 2 Extreme) b. Mast heights vary between Corbins. I have an extra-tall mast and require larger winches. Calculate your genoa area and decide for racing or cruising. Then, consult the guide on Page 276 in the BoatUS catalog. Use the drum diameter, gear and power ratios to interpolate to winches made by manufacturers other than Lewmar. Buy a two-speed winch and go up one size, if you are weak and rich. Lester Helmus (s/v #010, Insouciance) c. We bought most of our winches long ago, in 1980, as part of a Co-Op purchase and the total order then was just over $40,000! These were Barient winches, now out of business. This is what we have installed, all chrome plated bronze, with 10″ handles. (Photo shows the Wheelhouse roof mounted winches.) http://www.corbin39.com/qanda/winchesatopwheelhouse.jpg Primary, Genoa sheets: 2 Lewmar 56, 2 speed, Self Tailing (ST). These were bought in 1996 and are perhaps slightly oversized but they are great to use and my wife can haul me up the mast with one. Secondary, Staysail sheets (also used for Genoa furling line, when necessary): 2 Barient 27, 2 speed, ST. Main Sheet: Barient 23, 2 speed, ST ( mounted on wheelhouse top, Stbd.) Main Halyard (also used via rope clutches for Clew reef lines): Barient 21, 2 speed (mounted on wheelhouse top, Stbd.) Boom Vang, Outhaul, Topping Lift, Staysail Halyard, via rope clutches: Barient 21, 2 speed (mounted on wheelhouse top, Port.) Mast Mount for misc. halyards etc.: Port side: Barient 18, 2 speed, used for Genoa Halyard and misc. Stbd sde: Barient 10, used for misc. Could be used for reefing Tack lines, if necessary. NOTE 1. Originally, we bought the Barient 27s to be our Primary winches (cash constraints) although Dufour/Corbin recommended #28 or #32. Before installation we decided they were too small so bought the big Lewmars and all the others moved “up” one size. Therefore, some of the others may be a bit larger than necessary. Generally bigger is better but the main halyard winch is about right. NOTE 2. Self Tailing is a good feature and all ST winches would be a good choice, if money is not a restriction. We have fitted a couple of the rubber “Winchers” but they don’t match a proper ST winch. It is important to match ST winches to the rope size being used to avoid slippage. NOTE 3. To accommodate our wheelhouse mounting for lines led aft we have fitted tubes through the forward cockpit coaming (1980 hull version) so the ropes can lead directly to the clutches and winches. This was a tricky fibreglassing job but it works very well. NOTE 4. If you are planning dodger and wheelhouse top winches make sure you locate the winches so that you can swing the handles. We have seen many boats where this is a problem. Our dodger has a side curtain that is usually kept rolled up to allow the Secondary (forward) cockpit winches to have full circle handle rotation. Make sure the ST stripper is in the correct location, as shown by the winch manufacturer. David Salter (s/v #050, Opportunity) d. I was looking for other info when I found a good colour pdf catalog for Barient winches on the C & C Yacht website http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/index1.htm It appears to date from 1989 (last page). I have Barient winches, as did many of the Canadian finished boats. My catalog is not so colourful and dates from 1979. David (s/v #050, Opportunity)
Category: RUNNING RIGGING

Arranging running rigging etc to the cockpit for solo sailing, by Horacio Marteleira

This answer by Horacio Marteleira describes the arrangement he has on #073, “Jakater” PH-C which he frequently sails singlehanded. However what is described can be just as relevant to anyone who sails, whether shorthanded or with ample crew. This is because in rough weather the less need to leave the cockpit the better. Also the easier it is to reef the more likely crews will reef in good time. The question was asked by someone with a centre cockpit, whereas Jakatar is aft cockpit but this does not make a great difference. Note that Jakatar is a mk1 PH-C which makes it easier to run lines along the deck outside either side of the cockpit. The supplementary comment from Olly James regarding the setup on Abenaki will interest anyone with a mk2 PH-C

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On #073 “Jakatar”, all the lines are led aft for solo sailing. The halyard, vang/kicker, staysail sheet and two reefing lines go along the deck around the pilothouse via organizers and lead to clutches bolted to the side of the cockpit walls and are trimmed by winches also mounted to the side of the cockpit wall. The photos make this clear.

For anyone with a CC, I assume you can mount your mainsail traveller aft of the wheel for easy and fast control, which is essential for solo sailing.

Also I believe using a mainsail downhaul is a must for solo sailing, as well as running a single harness lifeline along the centre of the deck between the granny bars and the mast so that you’ll never fall overboard.

The photos show the running rigging setup on #073, “Jakatar” for solo sailing. On the left of the mast are three halyards (main, staysail and assymetrical, don’t need a halyard for the genoa). Then the kicker/vang, the thinner main downhaul, and 2 leech reefing lines, 1 luff reefing line (I washed the other luff line and forgot to install it again). Plus there is the topping lift secured to the bottom of the mast which is the only line that does not go back to the cockpit.

The other photographs show the organizers, about the same on port and starboard, leading back to clutches and winches. The luff reefing lines go to a block on the toerail and then directly to a winch. The staysail sheet goes to a clutch and so do the lines of the running backstays.

The preventer lines, not rigged now but nearly always rigged when sailing, go from a shackle at the boomjack attachment point forward, through the midship cleat and back to a free winch, normally the winches on the pilot house. The preventers are for safety purposes but also brilliant for preventing the boom from jolting when sailing downwind.

Another important aspect: I use only one lifeline for the harness, which goes forward between the mast and the granny bars and ends at the staysail tack. This way, using a short tether, I can’t go overboard even if I tried. I also have a longer tether to switch to if necessary and used on a crawl in rough weather. When sailing solo, falling overboard with the silly setup of a lifeline along the side of the deck, which provides a false sense of safety, will only prolongue your agony.

Oh yes, the main must be easily depowered from the wheel. Having most of the lines run over the pilothouse to 2 winches on either side may be better than what I have, not sure. Hope I covered everything and my apologies for the dirty deck.the lines running over the pilothouse may be better, would have to try it and compare. Either way, having the lines led to the cockpit is the way to go for solo sailing.

I currently have the first two reefs rigged. The first mostly to deal with weatherhelm, the second to deal with weatherhelm and heeling. Many times I have cursed for not havig rigged the third reef for 30+ knot winds. Having 3 reefs is ideal, but I ran out of blocks and clutches, and going forward to place the 2nd and 3rd luff reef points manually while solo sailing is somewhat wishfull thinking and downright hazardous.

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Olly James : On “Abenaki” I have mine running up and over coach roof into a conduit. Abenaki has the main halyard, main reefing line, main sheet and boom vang run back to the aft cockpit. It has a Reefrite furling boom and all done from an electric winch at the push of a button whilst sipping a beer. You can see that there are not so many lines, this is because Abenaki has in-boom furling. Although Abenaki is a mk1 PH-C this approach may be very relevant for anyone seeking to run these lines back to the cockpit for a mk2 PH-C as they cannot so easily run lines along the side decks.

Since we bought Necessity a couple of years ago we have been looking at the mainsheet arrangement and how it can be improved. Currently, the mainsheet has a 3 point boom purchase from a pilothouse traveller. The mainsheet is led forward and down to the deck just aft of the mast, then across the deck to starboard, then aft to the PH. It then goes up and over the pilothouse and through the dodger to a winch next to the companionway. CanvasNecessity0004.JPG In all the friction involved is horrendous. In light to moderate air there is no need to cleat the main at all – friction does it . I have considered several different options but wanted to see if others have addressed this issue with success. Here is what I have considered so far: 1. leave the arrangement as it is but replace current Schaefer blocks with ball bearing ones. 2. reduce the main sheet diameter from 7/16″ to 1/2″ to make existing blocks run better. 3. Leave existing boom purchase but drop down from the boom to the top of the PH then across the top of the PH and aft to the winch. The issue is that the mainsheet will tighten as the traveller is eased. 4. New double ended mainsheet with triple purchase on the boom exiting at the traveller outboard from the car to both ends then back to the companionway winches. I think this is the best arrangement as there are only 2 turning blocks (1 at each end of the traveller) However, I have not seen one so I am concerned about trying the prototype as there is a substantial investment in blocks. I would very much appreciate any advice on this topic as we want to make any changes this spring. sincerely, Brian Hall (#135, Necessity)

a. My first reaction was; why do the lines lead all the way to the main deck and then back over the ports to the cockpit? I installed a dodger recently, which interfered with the mainsheet going directly aft, leading off my three point purchase. I now (temporarily) go around the dodger to make adjustments (the three sheave block has an attached cleat). My solution: I plan to install two (2) turning blocks just beyond the hatch cover on top of the pilot house, then aft thru the traveller support and a hemmed opening in the dodger to a winch and cleat starboard. The winch and cleat are already there to handle the traveler lines. In this regard I would like also to see any helpful feedback from others regarding Necessity’s possible solution. I’m also investing in the Dutchman boom brake to avoid an accidental jibe while heading directly downwind. Tim Oneil (#138, Whaleback)

b. On #102, Bodacious I have the setup you have but it does not come back to the pilot house. It is adjusted from the front of the pilot house. There are no turning blocks or winches. It adjusts easily, However I was thinking of swapping the end blocks and turning the traveler car around. This would bring the traveler controls back directly to the pilot house. You might have to stand in the companionway to adjust it. Gene Byrd, (#102, Bodacious)

c. When constructing our Corbin 39 from a bare hull, I studied a number of mainsheet systems and decided on the one I will describe. My main objective was to have a very strong system which was devoid of the lines running aft from the mast. Friction was a factor in my decision but I was more influenced by my experience with charters that had similar systems. It seems that I was forever rolling the lines underfoot or worse, tripping over them. Therefore: no lines on deck! We had an arched stainless steel bridge constructed that spanned the companionway opening and was thru bolted to the molded risers on either side that were designed for this purpose. It is not bolted to the storm cover since the cover is not strong enough to add any strength. The curvature generally follows the coach roof lines. The traveler track is bolted to the bridge. I used a Harken track that allows for flexible spacing of the bolts. Other manufacturers now make similar units at lower cost. I had Harken bend the track to my bridge curvature. The first design had a strong pad eye on the port forward side of the bridge. The sheet was fixed to this eye and led to a block on the traveler car. From there it went up to a boom block, back to another traveler block, up to another boom block, back to another traveler block, then to a block the starboard deck slightly aft of the bridge. From this block the line was led to a winch. This arrangement, where the terminus of the sheet is at the same spot on one side as the turning block (to the winch) is on the other side allows the traveler to be moved without changing the sheet location…in theory. The theory doesn’t exactly apply here since the bridge is curved while the boom swings in a generally flat arc. I guess that the matter could be solved by using a straight bridge rather than an arched one. However, the small amount of shift in the sheets did not affect things much except when the main was pulled in very hard. In any case, I didn’t mind a little “tweaking” of the mainsheets. However, adjusting the traveler position required some effort. This was due to the usual forces on the system, plus the friction of the mainsheet as it proceeded thru the blocks. I have since modified this system for other reasons. I stopped the mainsheet on a becket on one of the boom blocks rather than on the bridge end. This increased the mechanical advantage from 4:1 to 5:1 which helped my spouse. It also meant that the main had to be adjusted anytime the traveler was moved. This has not turned out to be a significant problem. The original system caused the blocks on the traveler to twist and interfere with each other. This was due to the torque caused by the two ends of the sheet pulling on different sides of the traveler. It caused chafe on the blocks and made the lines tend to twist around each other which caused lots of problems. The new system eliminated those problems and generally runs noticeably freer than the old system. I use Harken blocks throughout and I find that the whole system runs freely. Well, I apologize for all of the words and I hope that you have some notion of what my mainsheet system looks like. If I can be of any further help, please do not hesitate to contact me. For what it’s worth, we also installed a small 4:1 block and tackle inside the boom on the main clew outhaul. This has made adjusting the outhaul while under load much easier. Best regards, Lou Marilyn Lieto (#193, Impresa).

d. Brian, I found this diagram of my original setup. Note the use of a triple block instead of a fiddle on the traveler. The boom-to-traveler distance is short and I think a fiddle will not work well. However, the use of a triple block was responsible for a lot of the twist I observed. As I described, I have made two changes. You can see the eye that terminates the sheet on the forward port side of the bridge. The sheet end has been moved from the eye to a becket on the forward boom block. Also the triple has been replaced by three singles supported by stand up springs on each. These can each find their own angle and the system, which looks cumbersome, works well. Cheers, Lou

e. Lou, Thanks so much for your thoughtful comments. You have obviously had a great deal of experience with this issue. Here are a few of my questions: Do you by chance have a picture of your current arrangement you could send? I sail in the Chesapeake but I live about 350 miles away, so a picture will have to wait until I next make the journey which will be in about a month. I’ll send you some then. Do you have a dodger which is up most of the time? I have a dodger & bimini which I keep up all of the time. Does your mainsheet go through it to the cabin top winch? The sheet leads from the block on the traveller to a stand up block (with a spring on it to prevent it from falling over when not under tension) and from there to a cheek block. The cheek block is on the deck at approximately the location of the starboard traveller blocks just aft of these. The sheet travels straight aft along the pilothouse roof under the dodger to another cheek block where it turns to the winch. The winch is located on the pilothouse deck at the aft corner of just to the starboard side of the companionway opening. Am I right in thinking the main is dead ended at the traveller and adjusts from only one end (starboard)? It is deadended on a becket on one of the boom blocks.

Does the final lead from the boom to the turning block pass through a block at the traveller or come from the boom directly? I am not sure of the question. The final lead of the sheet comes down from the boom block to a block on the traveller. The function of this block is to turn the rope from vertical (from the boom) to horizontal – to the stand up block mentioned above.
We currently have 3 attachment points on the boom. Do I understand that you have two? Does this create any problem with excess loading of the boom? I have two attachment points. A third may be located between these two but does not currently exist. The riggers I have consulted as well as the manufacturer of the mast were quite certain the there would be no problems with the loadings.
Is there any need for a winch to trim the main in heavy air with the 5:1 purchase? Was the 4:1 too difficult? That depends on various things. If you reef early perhaps not. I make it a practice to use the winch when the wind pipes up. My main may be larger than average since I had the mast made 4′ higher than on the original plans. Nonetheless, I do not feel it wise to have the mainsheet secured only by a cleat. The possibility for an unpleasant “surprise” while uncleating the the sheet under load is not worth the savings. My wife and I are in our mid 60’s and we usually sail alone in the Bay and in coastal trips, including overnighters. I can pull the sheet in under most conditions but my spouse cannot. The winch certainly makes fine tuning the main very easy. The move to 5:1 was mostly predicated on the twisting and block chafing problems I mentions earlier. However, as I said, I like this arrangement much better than the previous design. I have enclosed a couple pics of a mock up the arrangement I am considering which would use two blocks on the traveller and a mainsheet which is double ended. What are your thoughts based on your experience? I thought the double ended model would allow the mainsheet to move “through” the blocks as the traveller was adjusted but I am concerned about the twisting problem you encountered. The other alternative which Frank Bryant on #186, Visitant has used is to end his mainsheet with a set of cams on the traveller car itself. This requires him to open the dodger window to adjust the main. We are planning to take the boat transatlantic and I’m not sure this is workable in a high wind situation when you would most likely have the dodger closed in. Although I have not tried it, I share your concerns about the design used on #186, Visitant. I did not use a fiddle block in my design so you may have fewer problems. On the other hand, consider the following. When the main is sheeted in reasonably tight and you wish to ease the traveller, the distance between the traveller and the boom increases as the traveller moves outboard. Net, you have to adjust the sheet anyway, albeit less than you would have to with a single ended mainsheet. You may come to a different decision, but I found that I don’t tweak the main nearly as much as racers do and the convenience of adjusting the traveller without having to touch the mainsheet is just not that big a deal. By the way, hauling on the traveller with my system (which is 4:1) takes some strength. I don’t need a winch but it does require some ooomph.

Thank you so much for your efforts. It is good to talk about the issues with someone else who has dealt with them. Thanks, I specialize in trying all of the unworkable solutions first! By the way, where are you located? We sail out of Bayfield Ontario on Lake Huron. We sail out of a marina on the northeast side of Kent Island which is across the Chesapeake Bay from Annapolis, MD. I will get you some photos later if you are still interested. All my best Brian Hall, s/v Necessity and Lou Lieto, (s/v Impressa)

f. I don’t believe I can help you too much in arranging the mainsheet for you, what works for me may not work for you etc. However; I can tell you from my experience you do not want to have a load bearing block on the flat deck if it is in tension. That point loading will deflect your deck and cause lamination problems with the plywood coring and lead to failure. Even with good back-up plates. Shear loading I would guess is ok. I had to replace my mainsheet system for the same reasons you mentioned and more. I had to redo the deck coring around the area where the block was fastened through the deck behind the mast and with a good stainless steel backing plate. Good luck, Gene Whitney, (#069, Joint Effort).

g. Brian, Here are a couple of pictures where you might get an understanding of what I did for the new traveler. Originally the traveler was in the cockpit as you know, I constructed a rooftop unit and made it a mid boom system. This works well for me, I do not use a winch for sheeting in all but the most windy days. The mainsheet does not lead to the cockpit in any way. I think the cockpit is too small for this. I like to get up to the traveler on deck where there is room and use my legs to sheet. When the weather pipes up and I need to use a winch I sheet to the winch on the mast, here I can use the mast pulpit and brace myself for the sheeting while standing up. My mainsheet faces forward for sheeting. The vang is nearby also as well as the traveler controls. when I need to put the sheet to a winch I think it is also time to put in the first reef. The boat is so stable I have no problems feeling anxious about doing this. This is not a race boat and there is no reason to put the traveler in the cockpit for speed or safety. Besides in the small cockpit there is no way to put proper effort into sheeting the mainsheet without wrenching your back or putting a elbow in your wife’s or crew’s face when trying to pull in 20 or so feet of loose line. I find I do very little mainsheet trim anyway, I mostly run the traveler up and down to trim on the wind and off the wind it is very easy to trim the sheet on your feet by the pilot house. One good thing with this system is you can hardly over trim the mainsheet and that saves your main from too much distortion as what happens on most race boats. I hope I was some help to you. Gene Whitney, (s/v #069, Joint Effort)

h. My first reaction was; why do the lines lead all the way to the main deck and then back over the ports to the cockpit? Brian – I agree 100% just creates friction. I thiiink the original reason was to allow the traveller to be adjusted without affecting mainsheet tension.I installed a dodger recently, which interfered with the mainsheet going directly aft, leading off my three point purchase. I now (temporarily) go around the dodger to make adjustments (the three sheave block has an attached cleat).

A = Brian – We have a dodger too and want to come aroooound it.

My solution: I plan to install two (2) turning blocks just beyond the hatch cover on top of the pilot house, then aft thru the traveller support and a hemmed opening in the dodger to a winch and cleat starboard. The winch and cleat are already there to handle the traveler lines.

Brian – See my notes and pics to Lou – we thought about a double ended mainsheet which would essentially follow the path of the traveller lines. Probably would cleat it to port and use the existing starboard winch. In this regard I would like also to see any helpful feedback from others regarding Necessity’s possible solution. I’m also investing in the Dutchman boom brake to avoid an accidental jibe while heading directly downwind. Tim Oneil. (s/v Whaleback) and Brian Hall, (s/v Necessity)

A couple of pictures that may help with some of these suggestions.

Category: RUNNING RIGGING

SAFETY SYSTEMS and EQUIPMENT

Arranging running rigging etc to the cockpit for solo sailing, by Horacio Marteleira

This answer by Horacio Marteleira describes the arrangement he has on #073, “Jakater” PH-C which he frequently sails singlehanded. However what is described can be just as relevant to anyone who sails, whether shorthanded or with ample crew. This is because in rough weather the less need to leave the cockpit the better. Also the easier it is to reef the more likely crews will reef in good time. The question was asked by someone with a centre cockpit, whereas Jakatar is aft cockpit but this does not make a great difference. Note that Jakatar is a mk1 PH-C which makes it easier to run lines along the deck outside either side of the cockpit. The supplementary comment from Olly James regarding the setup on Abenaki will interest anyone with a mk2 PH-C

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On #073 “Jakatar”, all the lines are led aft for solo sailing. The halyard, vang/kicker, staysail sheet and two reefing lines go along the deck around the pilothouse via organizers and lead to clutches bolted to the side of the cockpit walls and are trimmed by winches also mounted to the side of the cockpit wall. The photos make this clear.

For anyone with a CC, I assume you can mount your mainsail traveller aft of the wheel for easy and fast control, which is essential for solo sailing.

Also I believe using a mainsail downhaul is a must for solo sailing, as well as running a single harness lifeline along the centre of the deck between the granny bars and the mast so that you’ll never fall overboard.

The photos show the running rigging setup on #073, “Jakatar” for solo sailing. On the left of the mast are three halyards (main, staysail and assymetrical, don’t need a halyard for the genoa). Then the kicker/vang, the thinner main downhaul, and 2 leech reefing lines, 1 luff reefing line (I washed the other luff line and forgot to install it again). Plus there is the topping lift secured to the bottom of the mast which is the only line that does not go back to the cockpit.

The other photographs show the organizers, about the same on port and starboard, leading back to clutches and winches. The luff reefing lines go to a block on the toerail and then directly to a winch. The staysail sheet goes to a clutch and so do the lines of the running backstays.

The preventer lines, not rigged now but nearly always rigged when sailing, go from a shackle at the boomjack attachment point forward, through the midship cleat and back to a free winch, normally the winches on the pilot house. The preventers are for safety purposes but also brilliant for preventing the boom from jolting when sailing downwind.

Another important aspect: I use only one lifeline for the harness, which goes forward between the mast and the granny bars and ends at the staysail tack. This way, using a short tether, I can’t go overboard even if I tried. I also have a longer tether to switch to if necessary and used on a crawl in rough weather. When sailing solo, falling overboard with the silly setup of a lifeline along the side of the deck, which provides a false sense of safety, will only prolongue your agony.

Oh yes, the main must be easily depowered from the wheel. Having most of the lines run over the pilothouse to 2 winches on either side may be better than what I have, not sure. Hope I covered everything and my apologies for the dirty deck.the lines running over the pilothouse may be better, would have to try it and compare. Either way, having the lines led to the cockpit is the way to go for solo sailing.

I currently have the first two reefs rigged. The first mostly to deal with weatherhelm, the second to deal with weatherhelm and heeling. Many times I have cursed for not havig rigged the third reef for 30+ knot winds. Having 3 reefs is ideal, but I ran out of blocks and clutches, and going forward to place the 2nd and 3rd luff reef points manually while solo sailing is somewhat wishfull thinking and downright hazardous.

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Olly James : On “Abenaki” I have mine running up and over coach roof into a conduit. Abenaki has the main halyard, main reefing line, main sheet and boom vang run back to the aft cockpit. It has a Reefrite furling boom and all done from an electric winch at the push of a button whilst sipping a beer. You can see that there are not so many lines, this is because Abenaki has in-boom furling. Although Abenaki is a mk1 PH-C this approach may be very relevant for anyone seeking to run these lines back to the cockpit for a mk2 PH-C as they cannot so easily run lines along the side decks.